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  CONTENTS

  Prologue

  1. Minnie’s Ski Troops

  2. Paradise

  3. “I Love a Soldier”

  4. The Homestake Fiasco

  5. “Too Beautiful a Place to Die”

  6. Sport Imitates War

  7. Not Too Swift

  8. The Winter Line

  9. Riva Ridge

  10. Belvedere

  11. R&R

  12. Race to the Alps

  13. Tunnel of the Dead

  14. Mountain Idylls

  15. “We Could Do Almost Anything”

  16. A New World Outside

  Photographs

  Acknowledgments

  Bibliography

  Index

  To Ellen, Cloe, and Cecily.

  And to my father who, like the men of the 10th Mountain Division, modestly downplays his contributions in World War II.

  We conquer men and mountains.

  —Motto of the 87th Regiment, 10th Mountain Division

  Higher.

  —Motto of the 86th Regiment, 10th Mountain Division

  Always Forward.

  —Motto of the 85th Regiment, 10th Mountain Division

  Prologue

  John Jennings, a twenty-one-year-old infantryman with the 87th Regiment of the 10th Mountain Division, steadied his ski and slipped one leather boot between the toe irons. In the darkness, he felt for the cable loop and positioned it around his heel. Then he snapped the forward throw closed—a familiar, comforting sound—locking his boot to the ski. Kneeling, he repeated the process with the other boot and binding. It was January 1945. Snow coated the cobblestone streets of Vidiciatico, a medieval farming village in Italy’s Northern Apennine Mountains. A few miles to the north, the German army had dug in for the winter along a series of high ridges, forming a defensive shield that U.S. Army mapmakers dubbed the Winter Line.

  The hills here reminded Jennings of the hills around Hanover, New Hampshire, where he had completed three semesters at Dartmouth College before reporting to the Army in February 1943. Monte Belvedere, the mountain directly in front of Vidiciatico, sloped up gradually to a long, whaleback ridge at 3,800 feet. Sharp ravines etched the mountain face in a few places, but most of the ground was cultivated in a patchwork of tilted fields and hedgerows, woods and orchards nearly to the top. Now, of course, the fields lay dormant under a thin, midwinter snowpack. Lit by a partial moon, individual crystals sparkled between the shadows. It was the kind of night that Jennings would have considered beautiful back home in Massachusetts. It was beautiful, in spite of the deadly game he was playing.

  Jennings’s ten-man patrol would have to maneuver, at least part of the night, in the open, and so they wore their camouflage “whites,” knee-length poplin anoraks, over their olive-drab uniforms. Their skis were painted white too, as were the bamboo shafts of their ski poles and the camo-white pack covers. A lot of their gear, though, developed specifically for the 10th Mountain Division during its training in Colorado, had not made the crossing to Italy. Or if it had, not much of it had been delivered to the front lines. The soldiers missed their lug-soled mountain boots and their custom mountain rucksacks. They didn’t have their white pants or their white canvas gaiters to keep snow out of their boots. Their high-peaked, four-man mountain tents were nowhere to be seen, and instead of cozy, double-down sleeping bags the soldiers huddled under thin army blankets. Fortunately, most of them were billeted indoors, out of sight of German observation, in nearby barns and farmhouses. The supply sergeant who had brought the skis and anoraks up from Florence couldn’t find any climbing wax, so Jennings and the patrol had “borrowed” candles from Italian families and rubbed candle wax onto their ski bases instead. At midnight, they slipped out of Vidiciatico toward Belvedere. It felt good, Jennings thought to himself, to have the boards on his feet again.

  At Dartmouth he’d been a four-event man—jumping, cross-country, downhill, and slalom. But his first choice following Pearl Harbor had not been the Army’s newly formed ski troops. He had wanted to join the Navy. His mother’s family came from the Vermont side of Lake Champlain, near where the Battle of Plattsburgh was fought during the War of 1812. Relatives told stories about the British invaders sailing down the lake from Canada raiding farms along the way only to be defeated in the decisive naval battle off Plattsburgh. The smaller American fleet won with stunning certainty, thus preventing the invasion of New York via the Hudson River valley. Sailing held the real romance for Jennings. But the Navy wouldn’t take him because he wore glasses. As his second choice, he volunteered for the 10th Mountain Division. “At least,” his father reasoned, wrongly, as it happened, “you won’t be sent overseas.”

  The patrol skied in silence, single-file through moonlit stands of leafless oak and chestnut trees. Warm days and freezing nights had left an icy crust on the snow surface. It supported the skiers’ weight most of the time. Now and then, the crust collapsed, and their skis broke through, knee-deep, into the sugary hollow below. Without skis, it would not have been possible to go even a hundred yards; a man on foot would simply flounder. Jennings labored under the extra weight of a Browning Automatic Rifle, a heavy though effective relic of World War I. Its firepower lay somewhere between that of a machine gun, which would have been too cumbersome for one man to ski with, and the standard-issue M-1 rifle. It took a twenty-round clip and could fire singly or in automatic bursts. Still, the BAR weighed twenty pounds, more than double the heft of the M-1, and Jennings also lugged twenty pounds of .30-caliber ammunition on his belt.

  Because of the weight, Jennings broke through more often than the riflemen did. It took more energy to free his ski tips and climb back to the surface, but he was a strong kid and a good skier. He’d grown early, to six feet and 175 pounds while still in high school at Cushing Academy. His 1939 football team went undefeated and untied as New England prep school champs, and as a member of Cushing’s traveling ski team, he had competed on the boards for years. At Camp Hale, Jennings’s skills had led him into the elite Mountain Training Group, or MTG, with the men who designed and taught the courses in skiing and mountaineering, the ones who led the training missions onto the rocks and snow. Jennings thought back now to those halcyon days in Colorado. The war hadn’t seemed quite real then, and it still didn’t—not at the deepest gut level. The 10th had been on the line only a few days. Except for the patrols, there hadn’t been much to do but stay hidden and keep warm. Jennings had not squeezed off even one shot with the BAR.

  For three hours the squad zigzagged uphill toward its objective on Belvedere’s west flank. The goal was an abandoned farm near the ridgeline. Were there Germans there? If so, how many? Did it look as if they’d occupied the place for a while? Were they dug in to defend or just passing through? The goal was not to fight any German soldiers they might find there, or win territory. Neither side was attempting, at this point in the winter, to gain ground. The cold and snow, the inability to move vehicles and artillery, had locked both sides into an uneasy stalemate. Still, both sides sent patrols across the line nearly every night, to probe, to learn what they could, and if they happened to get lucky, to bring back a prisoner for interrogation.

  Most patrols never fired a shot. Medic Bud Lovett joined a predawn ski patrol west of Belvedere outside the town of Bagni di Lucca. The squad skied quietly uphill until sometime after sunrise, when they spotted a lone German in ca
mouflage whites standing on a connecting ridge. The patrol’s orders included bringing back prisoners if possible, so the squad leader called out for the trooper to halt, put his hands on his head, and “come in.” A beat elapsed. Then another. Then the German jumped his skis 90 degrees into the fall line and schussed straight down the steep slope in front of him—“like going down Tuckerman’s,” Lovett thought. “He was some skier.” So impressed were the Americans that no one even thought to take a shot at him as he fled.

  When Jennings’s squad found the farmhouse, the officer in charge spread the men out in the field below it. Jennings was to set up his BAR on a haystack and provide cover while two scouts moved forward toward the buildings. Jennings wondered why. From where he crouched, he could hear Germans talking and digging in the rocky ground, digging a machine-gun placement perhaps. The Americans should get out now, before it got too light. They were right under the enemy’s nose, and in full daylight they would surely be spotted.

  The eastern sky brightened. Shadows sharpened as the snow took on a dawn glow. Seconds felt like minutes. And minutes stretched too far in both directions, into memory and fear. “Why is it taking so long?” Jennings thought. “We’re not going to be able to take a prisoner in broad daylight. We’re way out in the open here. No trees for hundreds of feet below the meadow. No cover. If the enemy has even one machine gun . . . Why don’t they hurry up?” Jennings, a private first class, was not in charge. All he could do was shift his feet—skis attached—to a slightly more comfortable position under him, and wait. He hadn’t exactly volunteered for these patrols. The S2 (intelligence officer) for the 2nd Battalion had spotted him in Vidiciatico, knew him to be a Dartmouth skier and MTG guy, and “volunteered” him for these night patrols. He hadn’t minded the duty until now. The skiing with heavy packs, that was okay—they’d trained for that—but this agonizing waiting . . .

  When the scouts finally scrambled back, the sun was nearly up. Jennings flung the BAR on his back and pushed off down the hill, skating and poling as fast as he could. All ten squad members raced through the growing light for the trees at the base of the meadow, certain that the enemy at their backs had spotted them. Jennings fought for balance on the collapsing crust. Climbing slowly uphill through tricky snow was one thing; this high-speed flight was quite another. The weight of the BAR threatened constantly to pitch him on his face. Now they were in the first small trees, just sticks really, dodging left and right around them. “This has got to be the hardest slalom I’ve ever raced,” Jennings thought. And then he saw the machine-gun fire kicking up puffs of snow on either side of him. They had been discovered.

  The bullets swept the snow in a predictable geometry a few feet behind the fleeing Americans. If any one of the patrol were to fall, he would surely be raked where he lay. Out of the corners of his eyes, Jennings checked the others flying as he was over the snow, all still upright, skiing for their lives.

  Legs pumping, skis singing with the speed, Jennings and his BAR dodged the last scrub oak into the clear, out of sight from above. They’d made it. They were free now to coast back down their ascent track, almost as if they were out for a casual ski tour in the Berkshires, say, or the Adirondacks, back to the safety of the line—and what awaited them next.

  CHAPTER 1:

  Minnie’s Ski Troops

  The idea for America’s first and only Army mountain division grew out of a conversation before the fire at Johnny Seesaw’s, a one-time roadhouse turned ski lodge near Manchester, Vermont.

  February 1940 was a bitter month in the Green Mountains. Storms swirled down from the Arctic whipping snow into drifts six feet high. Travel was dicey on slick roads, and the cold tested even hardy New Englanders. Still, skiers up from the cities, from Boston and New York and points south, soldiered up and down the trails at nearby Bromley Mountain. There was but one lift then, a rope tow with a turn in the middle that threw many an unwary rider. Gloved hands strained to grip the heavy rope. Snow from the swirling sky, and from the occasional fall, plastered wool jackets and blowsy gabardine pants, penetrated inside goggles and knit caps. After three or four runs, it was generally time to head for shelter.

  Following one particularly bracing session on the hill, four ski friends gathered in Johnny Seesaw’s common room to warm their outsides before the fire and their insides with a hot rum or two. Looking back, each member of the quartet could legitimately be called a founding father of the new sport of skiing in America, though they probably wouldn’t have described themselves that way; downhill skiing was simply too new, and their passions had yet to gain the perspective of history. First among equals was Roger Langley of Boston, president of the National Ski Association. The NSA organized and sanctioned amateur ski competitions going back to the late 1800s—first jumping, when that was the only form of competitive skiing, and then, beginning in 1933, alpine (or downhill) competitions as well. The NSA staged the national championships and selected U.S. Olympic team members. As president, Langley influenced everything from competition rules to the public face of American ski racing.

  Second before the fire, Harvard University grad Robert Livermore had raced for the United States at the first Winter Olympics to include alpine skiing, at Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany, in 1936. Next to him sat Alex Bright, the leader of an influential Boston ski club and, at forty-something, considered the dean of American downhillers. And finally, there was Charles Minot “Minnie” Dole, a Connecticut insurance executive and enthusiastic amateur skier who had just organized the country’s first volunteer ski patrols, known collectively as the National Ski Patrol System.

  Talk turned, as it did in countless living rooms that winter, to the Russo-Finnish war. Pearl Harbor was still almost two years away. Isolationist America was not at war and not at all sure that it would be drawn again, so soon after “the war to end all wars,” into conflict in Europe. But the topic pressed inevitably into conversation, fueled by radio and newspaper accounts, and by the movie news-reels. Beginning in October, the newsreels had given graphic immediacy to Hitler’s blitzkrieg through the Polish army and the shocking partition of Poland by the Nazis and the Soviets. Soon the Russians had also occupied Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania, and were pressuring the Finns for access to ice-free ports on the Gulf of Finland.

  The Finns said no. On November 29, 1939, with no formal declaration of war, a massive Soviet force of seventy divisions and over a thousand tanks invaded from the south and east. But instead of the expected walkover, the Soviets met determined and surprisingly successful resistance from the tiny Finnish defense force. At the time of the invasion, the Finnish army consisted of perhaps thirty thousand men, the equivalent of three small divisions, with a few antique tanks and aircraft. By the time the so-called Winter War ended, Finnish troop numbers had jumped to two hundred thousand, but the Soviets deployed nearly a million men and vastly out-gunned their northern neighbors. And still the Finns managed to stymie the lumbering Russian columns.

  They did this with stealth raids on skis. They used the climate and the terrain to their advantage, as do guerilla fighters everywhere. In a landscape dominated by countless snow-covered lakes, thick woods, and very few roads, the heavily mechanized Soviets were forced to advance in long, vulnerable lines over the established roadways. Rather than sit back in defensive positions, the Finns went on the offensive. Well camouflaged in head-to-toe white uniforms, they streamed out of the woods on skis, cut the Soviet columns from the sides, as if snipping a ribbon, and then, with cold and hunger weakening the invaders, proceeded over days to destroy the isolated pockets one by one. The Russians, in ill-conceived khaki and mostly without skis, were powerless to outmaneuver their assailants. The few Russians who were equipped with skis didn’t know how to use them. Finnish troops found how-to skiing manuals on many a body sprawled in the bloodstained snow.

  In the early weeks of the war, Finnish victories all out of proportion to their numbers netted more captured materiel than the country’s small industrial b
ase could possibly have manufactured. Again and again, the Finns appeared from out of the forest, wreaked havoc on the enemy’s flanks, and melted back into the trees, hauling their wounded on ski sleds. Light artillery was likewise moved around by horse-drawn sleigh. Victories at Suomussalmi and Tolvajärvi in December destroyed most of two Soviet divisions and forced the once-haughty Russians to rethink the whole affair. The Finns knew how to live in the snow, how to conceal sparks from their stoves and how to stay warm in tents and snow caves through nights that reached 60 degrees below zero. The Russians, by contrast, slept in freezing metal sheds and huddled around bonfires in the open air, which made them easy targets for Finnish snipers. Soviet commanders asked for and did finally receive a brigade of ski troopers from Siberia, but these men were accustomed to fighting out in the open. The entire brigade skied out onto a frozen lake and was gunned down by unseen riflemen in the trees.

  The Finns held out for three months, but in the end, the huge Soviet advantage in artillery and air power—and the coming of the spring thaw—finally bludgeoned the Finns into acceding. On March 13, the Russians got the territory they wanted on the Karelian Isthmus and a leased naval base at the mouth of the Baltic Sea. But the adventure had cost the Russians dearly: fifty thousand dead and three times that many wounded. And the damage to Soviet military prestige was even more devastating. The mighty Red Army had been embarrassed by the scrappy, resourceful Finns, and this fact would contribute to Hitler’s decision in 1941 to take on what he perceived to be a weak Soviet military. Western news organizations loved the Winter War: It was a classic underdog tale, the heroes vastly outnumbered but fighting with guile and success far greater than anyone could have expected—a kind of updated, snowy version of the Battle of Bunker Hill. What’s more, the fighting was photogenic. Camera crews sent back dramatic footage of the white-coated good guys and the swift grace of their running on skis.